Eyes were the focus at shows across all four cities, with Donna Karan and Altuzarra in New York, Clements Ribeiro and Christopher Kane in London, Gucci and Versace in Milan and Chanel and Dior in Paris all choosing to draw attention to coloured liner, jewelled lids and extra-long lashes.
Meanwhile, matte lips at the likes of Giles, Rochas and Burberry Prorsum pepped up pared-back beauty looks, whilst Marc Jacobs and Moschino’s Sixties focus held its own against the Nineties grunge liner at of Lanvin and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
ENHANCED MINIMALISM – Unlike last spring, where the fewest possible products were used to create a genuine “natural” look, this season’s minimalism is all about a flawless finish. Skin was prepped to perfection, whilst a little clever contouring, a subtle curl of the lashes or a flush of pink on the cheeks gave the look an added dimension which set it apart from the average “no make-up” look.
Diane von Furstenberg spring/summer 2013
FOCUS POINT: THE LOWER LASH LINE – Born from the overarching Nineties trend spanning both fashion and beauty, make-up artists seemed inexplicably drawn to the lower lash line. Grungy liner at Lanvin, Diane von Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Christopher Kane was smudged beneath the eyes, whilst the only pop of colour at Stella McCartney was a flash of green on the water line. Meanwhile at Fendi, coloured fabric strips were placed on the lower lash line for an arresting catwalk look.
Giles spring/summer 2013
COLOUR POP – From bursts of fuchsia on the lips at Giles and Dries Van Noten to indigo, lime and magenta eyes at Altuzarra, Michael Kors and Donna Karan respectively, a vibrant jolt of colour was emphasised even further by an otherwise stark beauty look in each case.
Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2013
VELVET SKIN – After seasons of youthful dewiness, a powdered, matte finish was turned into a desirable thing again, at shows including Alexander McQueen, Valentino, Roberto Cavalli, Alexander Wang and so many others we can’t even begin to list them all.
FLUTTERY LASHES – Full, feminine, fluttery – and quite openly faux – lashes were on show at Versace, Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Moschino, providing an antidote to the grungier, Nineties beauty elsewhere.
MATTE LIPS – Whether it’s Burberry’s velvety scarlet, Missoni’s bold coral or Giles’ vibrant fuchsia, the only way to wear bright colour on the lips is if it’s matte.
By Lisa Niven