The Observer fashion team chooses the 10 most desirable pieces for your spring/summer 2013 wardrobe from the Paris catwalks
The wind-turbine and solar-panel look that made up the set at Chanel turned our thoughts to energy (this was a very upbeat Chanel show after all) and then the weather. With regard to the latter, the message was: shield your face from the sun’s rays with a super-sized brimmed hat. Big brims were a Paris trend, seen also at Saint Laurent and Hussein Chalayan, who fused a floppy hat with a visor.
Fashion tip: Get a hat. Make it wide of brim.
For S/S13 you will need to tone those legs, ladies – it’s all about the mini. Raf Simons’s debut collection for Dior created two new key looks for the house: the jacket-dress and the mini silhouette – a young, fresh look that will keep the fashion pack happy.
Fashion tip: Look for a structured jacket and style with a simple black short. If you’re feeling creative, add a touch of embellishment, and voilà – your very own jacket-dress.
In Chloé’s 60th-anniversary year (the retrospective “Chloé: Attitudes” is currently showing at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris), designer Clare Waight Keller showed her best collection to date, tapping into the true Chloé spirit: a tomboy who isn’t afraid of flounces. Flamenco frills have been a persistent trend for SS13, and Waight Keller gave them a softer edge, making them more appealing than the more structured flounces seen elsewhere.
Fashion tip: Give a girly dress an edge with a tough metallic shoe.
If you long for a designer coat, we think Carven is within reach of a well-managed budget. Trim tailoring with a 40s-inspired elegance and neat belted silhouette in military grey is the perfect dress coat, with a sharp shoulder and epaulette detailing.
Fashion tip: Starting saving your pennies and get on the waiting list now.
What girl doesn’t long for a waspish silhouette… This season Alexander McQueen’s creative director Sarah Burton drew attention to the waist and played with proportions, taking inspiration from the bee – honeycomb prints and a sting-sharp hourglass waist, topped off with a modern slant on the beekeeper veil, dominated the collection.
Fashion tip: The peplum belt has arrived on the high street for autumn. Create a flattering waist by simply adding a wide belt over a jacket or coat.
If Dries Van Noten’s show were to be described as a dessert it would most certainly be a soufflé so light it may need to be tethered to a spoon. Delicate iridescent fabrics in unlikely checks and plaid prints inspired by a predominantly masculine garment like the plaid shirt were given a feminine touch by the layered fabrics dusted throughout with silver thread.
Fashion tip: Mix a check shirt with a long pleated chiffon skirt and create your own look.
The new denim
Miuccia Prada showed denim done in an uptown way. Forget jeans – this was dark wash in 50s shapes fit for femme fatales: sharply tailored pencil skirts, smocks with back vents filled with embellishments, and cape coats.
Fashion tip: Make the pencil skirt your focus for this look.
The sports kit
Fresh from Team GB outfitting success – Louis Smith, Victoria Pendleton and Ellie Simmonds all sat front row – Stella was still in a sporty mindset for next spring, mixing her signature oversized tailored silhouette with a finale of pressed-pleat chiffon dresses punctuated with pops of colour. At Junya Watanabe a link-up with Puma saw the models in trainers and sports-inspired running kit, including training jackets that had morphed into dresses.
Fashion tip: Layer gauzy pieces over bright colour.
The cropped bomber
The Roland Mouret woman is strong and powerful – these outfits mean business. The shape of the tailored bomber jacket is given a modern, sexy edge with the cropped cut.
Fashion tip: Choose a bomber in a soft cotton or lightweight fabric and give the look a more relaxed feel by pushing up the sleeves.
Nicolas Ghesquière’s take on the mini suit led the way for the short silhouette trend, but it was his vanity-case bags that we were lusting after most of all. Available in pale pink, chocolate and white in butter-soft leather, they have filled our daydreams ever since.
Fashion tip: Rummage at boot fairs and vintage shops for original ballet cases to get the look for less.