With a variety of suggestions informing the collections which awed at the New York, London, Milan and Paris runways we see an over arching theme of Renaissance, one where fashion is born again from its failsafe statements last season, to an overall more daring, yet with a cohesive and coherent mood city per city.
What does this mean? Simply that in NYC we saw typically wearable fashion, with a hint of creativity but an eye towards that commercial success that makes American designers last through crisis, trends and changes of creative directors. While in London, experimentation and fashion forward statements took centre stage, with emerging designers or newer talents at the very least exciting the most positive press, though difficult to translate from runway to store floor. In Milan, the luxurious, confident woman traipsed the catwalks, from trousers suited beauties to slinky dresses, all encased in an air of fairy tale a typical Italian escapism which characterized the rise of the Fashion Week in the eighties and nineties. While in Paris, well, we saw the unexpected, the thematically improbable, the classic, the new, in a very Parisian way.
The Fall Winter 2014-15 collections saw the great return of an old favourite: the trousers suit. Whether experimental, classic, feminine or androgynous this very eighties favourite has made it back on the runways, and made it big. Though the overall inspiration of the collections in terms of silhouettes were the decades of the 60s and 70s, there was a definite look towards some eighties staples such as the aforementioned trousers suit and in the sportswear camp with very modern and unusual manifestations of the shell suit.
Shapes took an all-together more top-heavy feel with oversize coats, capes and billowing furs. Slumped raglan shoulders with an exaggerated roundness are constructed on coats, capes and dresses as well as jackets and tunics. To contrast the too heavy feel leggings, tights and delicate footwear completed many looks.
The colour palette is divided in two very contrasting camps: autumnal hues and pastels, which in a way represent the mood of the collections: on the one side experimental and unusual, and on the other coherent, safe and ever so commercial. The colour of the season is once again red, red like the flame that burns with the passion of those involved in the fashion industry, those who love it and loathe it in equal measure.
Written by: Valentina Zannoni
Photo Credits: Gorunway