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00020h_592x888GIAMBATTISTA VALLI put the shirt in the spotlight this evening for a very beautiful collection that moved away from the stiff cocoon shapes we’ve been so used to seeing from him in seasons past and, instead, moved into more feminine and glamorous territory.

00010h_592x888 00020h_592x888 (1) 00050h_592x888This was about a well-travelled woman who was oh-so sophisticated with it. Sunglasses (a collaboration with Moscot) worn with each and every look, from day through to eveningwear, for movie star status; twisted turbans that very much called Paul Bowles’s The Sheltering Sky to mind; and a pleasing mix and match of monochrome stripes to blooms – mimosa, wisteria and anemone.

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Embroideries were fresh and vibrant throughout and came on wonderful silk evening dresses where again that shirt appeared for the tops of ballgowns whose skirts were comprised of wonderful layers of feather and taffeta, huge in shape and smudged to impressionistic effect with fantastic details – goldfinch prints and yet more embroidery, flowers very literally taking to bloom here.00240h_592x888 00200h_592x888 00090h_592x888

Silhouettes here were much closer to the body, embracing of a girl’s shape. And although elaborate and grand, these were pieces that the girls could still very much move in, both practically and in terms of where their day would take them: shirt dresses for out and about during the day, later whipped up into a beautiful ballgown frenzy.

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