This weekend’s Versace show was Donatella’s experiment in simplicity, which the house is most definitely not known for. For the Spring 2015 runway collection, she focused on wearable luxury with minimal detailing, added structure and just enough print and color to keep things interesting. Everything felt casual, and flew under the radar in an unexpected blend of glamour and effortlessness, making this collection one of the brand’s most successful yet.
Opting for discreet glimpses of skin rather than the full on strip show we usually see every season (we’re not exaggerating, we always see a little more of the models than we’d like to), Donatella chose to keep things modest—well modest for Versace—with leggy miniskirts, barely exposed midriffs and blazers that (gasp!) covered up models. It was sultry, sexy and provocative in all the right ways. Even women that have far from a perfect physique will still look and feel good in these designs.
Simple silhouettes like shift dresses, boxy crop tops and structured skirts were not without their sex appeal. Donatella used fabrics to convey sexuality throughout the collection; patent leathers, large grommets, body clinging silks, mesh and sheer lace kept everything looking very Versace without wandering into repetitive territory. Light patterns grazed pieces in the form of jumbo Greek keys, graphic details, Medusa prints and color blocking.
As a self-confessed magpie of sorts, my entire soul was drawn to the ending looks that bordered between evening gowns and cocktail dresses. Enlarged Greek keys or color blocked panels were covered in glitter making the garment sparkle with movement and offer up small glimmers of skin in unexpected areas, some creating gaps all along the body, making the dress seem more like floating rings of light.
Personally, this is one of the first Versace collections I could see filling my closet and actually being worn—on more than one occasion. Die-hard Versace fans might be a little miffed by the sudden change, but so far we are giving this collection an emphatic yes, and we can’t wait to see what becomes of the new direction from the Italian atelier.