The Hugo Boss name is synonymous with the kind of luxury that whispers rather than shouts and during the seasons that Jason Wu has been at the helm of the Boss brand he has adhered to an aesthetic that is understated yet powerful. For fall Wu explored ideas about industrial beauty; the kind of subtly commanding look that calls to mind architectural majesty.
Fittingly, Wu presented his collection atop 225 Liberty, César Pelli’s postmodern masterpiece. The airy space served as a perfect backdrop for the hard-edged tailored pieces that dominated the collection. Show opener Edie Campbell strutted out sporting a new haircut and a vermillion tinged navy overcoat and matching dress paired with glossy black boots that merged equestrian with mod. Kinga Rajzak and Saskia de Brauw appeared soon after in textured variations on the vermillion and navy that were no less appealing.
The show’s most exciting moments came when Wu mixed Boss’ menswear tailoring with a decidedly feminine sensibility. Razor sharp cutouts added interest to Julia Bergshoeff’s black tank and pencil skirt combination, while Ine Neefs sharp suiting was delivered in a mix of geometric patterns that dazzled the eye.
Texture played a decisive role in the collection with a blend of melange wool and jersey adding a tactile element to many of the colorful pieces. Playful moments like Angel Rutledge’s fuzzy blue turtleneck, were contrasted with segments that brought the show’s industrial focus to the forefront. Technology served to elevate several of the looks with plasticized fabrics and laser cut sequins used to create effect. Several of the show’s final looks provided an almost futuristic take on sensuality with layers of figure hugging sequins creating a chain-mail effect that accentuated every curve.
By Janelle Okwodu
Photos by Casey Vange for models.com